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Contact JD Performance @ [email protected] |
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For Chrome add $300. Please note that these colors may require more lead time. Other colors may be available please put in the comment section on the order form what you are looking for and we can research that for you.
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NEW LOWER PRICES, SAME HIGH QUALITY A ARMS |
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| We have been working very hard with our material suppliers to reduce our material costs, and we can finally say that we have succeeded. We are passing this success on to you with drastically reduced prices on our ATV A Arms. We are offering this without sacrificing anything. We continue to produce the same High Quality ATV A Arms just at a much better price to you. | ||
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We are now proud to offer Long
Travel A-Arms. With these A Arms you must run a longer
after-market shock. They are most suitable for the top class
racers. They come complete with Camber / Caster adjustment 4130 chromoly, tig welded upper & lower arms, ball joints, tie rods,
bushings and powder coated. Basically everything you need is
included, we can even help you order the shocks (not included).
Don't settle for a copy... order a proven product from the innovators. |
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| To set the caster is the fastest and easiest in the industry. The top arms have "caster shims". Simply remove the top A arm bolt (or 2 bolts for non Yamaha) and relocate the shims and shift the arm forward or back. The whole process takes 5 to 10 minutes, and adjusting the caster does not affect your camber settings. Most of our competition uses heims on the frame end of the top A arms to adjust caster. Using this method is extremely time consuming and difficult to do, not to mention that your camber settings will change in the process. Getting both sides of your quad to have equal settings is nearly impossible without specialized gages and tons of experience. We have taken the guess work out of the front end and made it easy for you! |
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On our to A Arms, the ball joint slides through the end of the arm, with a jam nut on the outside and lock nut on the inside. Camber adjustment is done by simply loosening one nut and tightening the other. Most of our competition threads the top ball joint into the arm, so adjusting the camber would require "breaking" the ball joint loose from the spindle then turning the ball joint... not very fast or easy. For those of you who are worried about the jam nut on our set up, simply use a little Locktite. |
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Rest the straight edge against the outside of your front tire (making sure both wheels are pointing straight and you are touching the same part of the tire, top and bottom). The top of the straight edge should lean inward for negative camber. Now put the angle finder against the straight edge and note the reading. If you need more or less camber, do so by adjusting the outer jam nut to acquire desired camber setting. You can also use a framing square , (make sure there is adequate pressure in tires so it does not bulge out at the bottom) butted up against the tire and in the same place it touches at the bottom, take a measurement at the top and give it about a 3/4" gap. This is approx a 2 1/2 to 3 degree negative camber setting.
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For this all you will need is a tape measure. Make sure the handlebars are straight, then make sure both tires are pointing straight forward. Before diving in too deep, we recommend that you get two tie downs, connect one to the right side handlebar and cross it over your seat to the left side grab bar. Then do the opposite with the other. Make sure bars are exactly straight and cinch them down.
Measure from the inside of one tire to a point on the chassis. Make a note of the distance. Then on the other side, measure from the exact same points as you did on the previous side. These measurements need to be exactly the same so that you know your tires are pointed the same.
Adjust the tie rods so that this measurement is the same. Now that you’re sure the tires are the same distance apart, you need to measure for the toe in. On the front of the tire about half way up, place one end of the tape measure on the inside of the tire and take a measurement from the same point on the other tire. Note this measurement. Then repeat this for the rear of the tire, the same height from the ground as you did on the front, and make a note of this measurement.
The front measurement needs to be a ¼ of an inch less than the rear measurement. Adjust the tie rods so that you achieve this measurement. And remember, count how many times you rotate the tie rod, then rotate the other side the same distance, so you can keep the tires going straight ahead, then take your measurements. One full turn on both tie rods will change the toe about 1/8th of an inch. |
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| * With all
extended length A-Arms, JD Performance recommends that
you get aftermarket front shocks that are set up for
your particular weight and riding style. Stock brake
lines will work with +1 and +2 length A-arms, but longer
brake lines will be required for any +2+1 or longer. * All prices are subject to change based on order and custom changes to your particular order. No Returns on custom orders. Average turn around from order date to ship date is about 2-4 weeks. Please call with any questions. |
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JD Performance Monday-Thursday 9am to 6pm Pacific Standard Time (951) 676-7957[email protected] |
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